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Here at Ultramax Racing Chassis, we put a tremendous amount of effort into each and every product we put on the market. However, we realize that it is not enough to give you the highest quality product that we can produce...

That is why we are dedicated to making sure that you get the most out of our product through our technical support programs and online owners manual area offered on this site.
Owners Manual Page 4:

With the hardest part of mounting the body behind you, we can quickly locate the left side panel and move on in our setup process. Place the left side panel up to the nose and space it up with your 1" spacer as done before. Again, check the joint to see that it fits well and then clamp the panel and nose together. Now, step back and look at the side panel to see if it is square with the chassis from front to rear. Be careful to check the clearance from the left rear rim making sure that the rim is no farther than 1" inside the side panel in order to comply with WKA rules.

Once the above has been done, move the left side nerf bar in or out if necessary to get it to fit flush against the side panel. With this done, you can now mark and drill each hole, one at a time, placing a bolt and nut through after each hole is drilled. When all four holes have been drilled, tighten each nut and bolt down and remove your 1" spacer.

When your body is fit and secure, it should look similar to the body in the picture above. Now that we have finished hanging the body, we can move on to getting your new kart ready for the race weekend ahead!
6 – Preparing For Race Day

With all of your necessary preparation work done to your new Ultramax Chassis we are now ready to do the necessary setup work to get you ready for the race weekend ahead. The following section will be a generalized discussion of the pre-race setup process. Because there are so many different track types and conditions we will not discuss specific setup numbers, rather, a general set of parameters for each setup item and a systematic approach to your pre-race setup process.

Step 1 – Tire Positioning
Your chassis should now have its caster, Ackerman and seat positioning set from the previous sections above. Now all we have to do is get an engine on there, pick out the right starting four tires and get it on the scale plate. Because of the unending variations in possible track types and conditions, we will not discuss specific types of tires to run and when to run them. We will only discuss their positioning on the kart. Tire positioning is a very critical aspect of chassis performance since they transfer the chassis information to the track and visa-versa. For that reason, we recommend leaving the positioning of your tires at the factory recommended settings that we are getting ready to list. There will be times where moving a tire slightly in or out here or there may help you, but as we have stated before, you will generally be better off if you run these recommended settings as the incorrect positioning of your tires can negate any chance of optimum chassis performance.

We recommend running the right rear, right front and left front a ¼" off of the frame or spindle at all times. The left rear is where any moving in or out will generally occur depending on track conditions and tire selections. For dirt, we have found that in almost all cases a 6.00 on the left rear is the way to go. As we have stated before, there may be times where this is not the case however, by keeping this constant you eliminate certain variables that can greatly hinder your on track performance. As a starting placement for the left rear, we recommend running a rear tread width (measured from outside of the right rear tread patch to the outside of the left rear tread patch) on dirt of 38 ¾" and on pavement, 39 ¼". Any time you change from one left rear tire to another, always recheck this measurement and move the left rear in or out to regain this measurement.

Lastly concerning tires, we recommending running no less than ¾" of rear stagger and no more than 1 3/8". With front stagger we recommend running no less than 1" and no more than 1 ¾". Again we stress that these parameters are merely a gauge to work off of. By no means will they work for every track condition in the country. However, we feel that if you stay within these parameters you are running a reasonable amount of stagger that should allow you to be fast at most any track.

Step 2 – Setting Your Camber
Now that the tires and engine are on the kart, we are ready to get your chassis on the scales! The first step once the chassis is on the scales is to check the camber and get it roughed in. Some drivers like to check camber with the driver in the kart and others like to check it with the driver out. There really is no right or wrong way to do this, only a consistent way. In other words, whichever way you choose to check it, check it that way every time you check the camber. With that said, lets discuss some numbers.

Right front camber can be related to how much the kart is being loaded by the given track conditions. If the track is very fast and is producing a lot of bite, then the right front tread patch will be deflecting quite a bit and therefore will need more negative camber in it. If the track is not biting very hard then likewise, the right front tread patch will not be deflecting very much and will not need as much negative camber. Right front camber is also very dependent on the tracks banking. If the track has a lot of banking in the corners it will then go through a very strenuous load on corner entry due to essentially being driven into the racetrack. Because of this you will have a rapid amount of right front tire deflection and will need to run more negative camber. We recommend running no less than -1 1/2° and no more than -4° of right front camber.

The left front tire can generally be considered as the tire that holds the kart in the corner. Relating the right front to the left front, the right front is the tire that accepts the load of the racetrack and the left front is the tire that directs the load put in the chassis. Left front camber can also be related to tire deflection, as was right front camber. If the track is very fast and producing a lot of bite, the left front tread patch will be deflecting quite a bit and will therefore need more positive left front camber. If the track is not producing a lot of bite the left front tread patch will not be deflecting as much and will therefore not need as much positive camber. Left front camber is not generally affected as greatly by banking as right front camber although it does depend on it a bit. We recommend running no less than +1/2° and no more than +1 1/2° of left front camber.

Again, these numbers are merely meant to give you parameters to work within. You may find situations where you need to run outside of these parameters. However, these parameters will almost always hold the correct amount of camber for your given track conditions. There is one final note on changing your camber settings.

We mentioned before that you would need to recheck your toe after checking your camber. With every camber change the toe will be effected, depending on how much the camber was changed. Whichever tire you are changing the camber in is the side that you will need to readjust your toe with. In other words, when you make a right front camber change, place the toe plates back onto the front end and readjust your toe by lengthening or shortening the right front tie rod. Once the right front camber is set you then do the same with the left front camber. By doing this after each change, you can prevent having to redo the squaring process mentioned earlier in the tutorial. The same process holds true for changing caster and Ackerman. Whichever side you change either of these on is the side that you need to readjust the toe on. We are now ready to place your chassis on the scales.

Step 3 – Setting Your Weight Percentages
We are now in the home stretch of pre-race preparation, its time to scale your chassis. We will again only be able to talk general numbers since there are so many varying track conditions as well as driver weights and sizes. The following paragraphs will give you some starting percentages as well as some pointers on when to change you weight percentages.

Left side weight is directly proportional to the amount of bite the track has and the size and positioning of the driver. We mentioned the positioning of the driver in great detail in the previous section on seat mounting. With that being addressed, we will now tie the amount of bite the track has to the positioning of the driver. The more bite a racetrack has and the bigger the driver, the more weight that will be transferred from left to right in the corners requiring more left side percentage to offset the amount of weight transfer. Likewise, a track with a small amount of bite and a little driver will not transfer very much weight in the corners therefore not needing very much left side percentage to offset the small amount of transfer. With this being briefly explained, we recommend running no higher than 58% and no less than 54%. The higher percentage will be needed for tracks that are very fast, have a lot of bite and have a bigger, but more importantly taller, driver. The lower percentage will be needed for the tracks with the least amount of speed and bite and a driver of a smaller build. Too much left side weight will generally make a kart quite lazy on corner entry sometimes creating a pushing condition due to lack of weight transfer from the left rear to the right front tire. Not enough left side weight will sometimes yield a very twitchy kart on corner entry causing an over biting condition of the right side tires making the kart overall, unstable.

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